Just looking to find out how many amps my stock alternator would put out on my new car, its a new 2.0l diesel skoda octavia VRS?
it could vary depending on what extras the car has on it if you can see the alternator it will say on it that is probably the only way to find out
…Without being afraid to break them?
I think the developpers set the right maximum limit so you won’t be able to break them. 
But I think the the audio quality will suffer.
The most significant to the most mundane thoughts are there for everyone to hear/read. What actions do you take.
I kill myself. Make the voices stop!
They are BIC America Formula 2’s from about 1973 or so Impedance 6 Ohm I have them hooked up to a Kenwood Stereo Receiver from 1999 and the tweeters do not output any sound. Are they repairable? Woofers are in great shape and sound nice no dry rot with the rubber surrounds.
I just had installed 6 ohm Tweeters out of a pair of Speakers from 1987 in Mint Condition. The old ones were dry rotted out.
You might want to google your speakers and see if anyone has done a rebuild before you may be able to get some tips on what to do…if your switching out to a different driver set you want the drivers to have similar characteristics to the original drivers the most critical being the Impedance next the sensitivity and last the frequency range…you may be able to get by just replacing the capacitors and the resistors in the crossover with ones of same value but some changes may also make it sound better or may be needed……it can get quite complicated and almost always what ever changes you make no matter how close to the original you get… will make the speaker sound different…its just weather the new sound is acceptable or not….
I noticed that my car audio capacitor stays on ALL the time now, I don’t know if there is a short in it or not? It always runs my car battery down. I can’t keep jumping my car off every time I turn it off.. How can I fix this?
Seems that something is wrong with the installation.
If you had it professionally installed, take it back and have them fix the problem.
If you did the installation, inspect the wiring and make sure that when the ignition is off (as in not in accessory mode) that all power to your stereo is off as well.
Im looking for a car that has good acoustics, placement options for speakers, and things like that for which I can install a great car audio system into. Speaking to experienced car audio installers, Im looking for things like for example, a car with a good trunk to bring out the low frequencies in the subwoofers, or something with the speakers placed in optimum positions for best sound. Know what I mean? Doesnt have to be newer, any year would do.
Older is probably better.
Hatchbacks offer the best "boom for your buck" in the subwoofer department.
But, If I could pick anything to just build an audio system in, it would probably be a Ford Explorer. There is plenty of room, all the components are in common sizes, and the trunk is literally a part of the car. But any SUV would do. Including smaller ones or imports.
Now if you just want to stay in the car department, look for larger hatchbacks like suburus and the like. You can also remove the entire rear seats, as is commonly done, on any of the mustang/camaro rwd sports cars. This gives you plenty of space to work with but you still have to deal with the odd shape of the rear compartment, plus you can’t take on any passengers!
But the great thing about car audio, is that its pretty easy to do in anything. The more complicated the original car audio is the harder it will be to upgrade, so stay the hell away from anything fancy. For example, some newer german cars use fiber optics in their audio systems which are integrated with the cars other systems and are a disaster to upgrade.
I have 1 15 inch sub woofer and an amp. but no head unit. i have a 1996 fire bird, how can i hook them up to work without a head unit?
Without a head unit, what are you going to amplify ?? You need a source for the music…..
I don’t want to go get a good decimal reader to see how loud mine and some of my friends car audio systems are, but I don’t want to go to a professional place and pay for each one, ive seen db readers like, Scosche SPL1000F 135DB Max Spl Meter, for cheap, but I don’t know if this is a good one or if there is a better one, any suggestions on one?
the scosche meter is junk.do not buy it.i saw one of those put into a couple of cars at a stereo competition.the real db meter read 144.5 db, the scosche read 122.7 db.then in another car the real meter said 137.3 and the scosche said 129.7 db.totally useless.
I am looking to hook up two 6×9’s and two 6.5" speakers, as well as a sub woofer to a 1200watt amplifier. I want to get the most potential out of my speakers and I think the 4x 50W amp in my headunit isn’t good enough.
The 6×9’s have an RMS of 200w
The 6.5"s have an RMS of 100w
The Sub has an RMS of 250w
Would the amplifier be ok?
The HU is 14-22w rms per channel. They’re generally powerful enough to drive the average speaker "okay", but far from their best.
You can do what you want to do. A 1200w peak 4 ch I’m going to guess is about 75×4 at 4 ohms and around 100×4 at 2 ohms.
What you would want to do is run the left 6×9 and 6.5 on ch 1 with the rt 6×9 and 6.5 on ch 2. Engage the HPF at around 60hz. That will have the amp running at 2 ohms stereo on those two channels which is a standard capability of any multi channel amp.
Each speaker should see around 50w rms.
Bridge ch’s 3 and 4 to run the sub. It will get around 200w rms.
I’m only guessing on power, but I shouldn’t be too far off one way or the other.
I have an Omega #BT12L 12" Amplified Bass Tube and the sub-woofer recently tore and now it sounds awful. I’ve been trying to figure out a way to remove it, but it seems impossible. I tried to remove the back part of the tube but was unsuccessful, and the front part won’t seem to come off. I don’t want to remove the sub-woofer by breaking the tube. Is there a proper way to remove the sub-woofer?
just cut the cone out of the woofer then start hacking away with a pair of tin snips until you can remove the outer part of the basket. If the screws won’t come out then drill them out. Then put some foam tape around the hole and stick your new sub in using new flat head screws. don’t use the old holes.